The Seiko 62MAS - legendary diver
The Watch That Redefined an Industry
In July 1965, Seiko unveiled the 62MAS, a watch that would achieve iconic status. As the brand’s first professional dive watch, it not only established Seiko as a serious player in the field but also laid the foundation for decades of design innovation. From its utilitarian roots to its cult-like status among collectors, the 62MAS is a story of ambition, ingenuity, and enduring influence.
Grammar of Design
The 62MAS, officially known as the 6217-8000, was born from the minds of Tatsuro Akabane and Taro Tanaka, the visionary designer who reshaped Seiko’s identity. Hired in 1959, Tanaka introduced the “Grammar of Design”—a set of principles that revolutionized watch aesthetics:
- Geometric Precision: All surfaces and angles were to be flat and geometrically perfect to maximize light reflection.
- Simplified Bezels: Bezels adopted two-dimensional polyhedral curves for clarity.
- Mirror Finishes: Cases and dials required flawless Zaratsu polishing, a technique still synonymous with Seiko today.
- Unique Case Designs: No generic shapes; every case had to be distinct.
These design principles, although more associated with high-end King and Grand Seiko dress watch designs, can clearly be detected in the 62MAS. Its 37mm stainless steel case featured sharp, angular lugs and a minimalist dial with bold trapezoidal indices—elements designed for legibility underwater and visual appeal above it.
For calculating dive times it had a unidirectional rotating bezel, a first for Seiko. This not only prioritized safety by preventing accidental adjustment during dives, but also featured a font that would later become a signature element in many of the brand’s subsequent dive watches.
A Tool for Professionals
The 1965 launch of the 62MAS (supposedly short for “AutoMAtic Self dater”) was engineered for the Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition (JARE). Though rushed into production, its specs were groundbreaking:
- 150m water resistance (unprecedented for a Japanese watch at the time)
- Screw-down crown and caseback to prevent leaks
- Luminescent markers for underwater low-light visibility
- 6217A movement with 17 jewels and 18,000 bph (the source of the "62" in 62MAS)
The new Seiko emerged during a transformative period for dive watches. By the mid-20th century, the dive watch had evolved from a niche tool into a cultural phenomenon, thanks to watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (1953) and the Rolex Submariner (1954). These Swiss icons set the standard for what a dive watch should be: robust, legible, and capable of withstanding the rigors of underwater exploration. Seiko, a Japanese watchmaker of no little history itself, having been founded in 1881, had been producing reliable timepieces for decades but had yet to venture into the dive watch arena with a purpose-built model.
Priced at 13,000 yen, (around $1,000 at today's prices - much less than the equivalent Swiss models of the day) it targeted professional divers and researchers. Early models had a small crown positioned at the traditional 3 o’clock spot (a rarity among Seiko divers, which typically place crowns at 4 o’clock) but Seiko swiftly revised it. They made it larger for easier use with gloves and screw-down for safer performance under water - a testament to their commitment to practicality.
Perhaps because of these revisions the watch was not used on the November 1965 JARE-7 expedition. However, the revised 62MAS, serial 6217-8001, became standard gear for JARE-8 in 1966, proving its mettle in extreme conditions.
Influence and legacy
Initially marketed as a utilitarian device, (In Japan, it was marketed as the “Seikomatic Calendar Diver’s Watch,” emphasizing its automatic movement and date function alongside its dive capabilities.) the 62MAS gained legendary status for its timeless design and robust performance. Collectors prize its clean lines and historical significance, with original, small-crown models fetching over $10,000 at auction. Seiko’s ethos of “functional beauty” resonated globally.
The 62MAS influenced not just dive watches but all of Seiko’s tool watches, setting a blueprint for the 1970's 6105 “Captain Willard” with its distinctive ergonomic case, curved for comfort. The SKX007, an affordable ISO-certified diver followed in the 1990's and today's modern Prospex models have heritage-inspired designs with advanced tech.
Honoring the original, Seiko has reinterpreted the 62MAS multiple times, blending vintage charm with modern engineering:
- SLA017 (2017): released to celebrate the 62MAS’s 50th anniversary, it's the most faithful re-issue to date. Limited to 2,000 pieces, it closely mirrors the original’s dimensions (38mm case, 14mm thick) and design, with a box-shaped sapphire crystal, a dolphin-engraved caseback, and a “waffle” strap reminiscent of the 1960s. Powered by the 8L35 caliber, it offers modern reliability while retaining vintage charm. Priced at around $4,000, it was a premium offering, reflecting the growing demand for high-end Seiko re-issues.
- SPB051/053 (2017): Released alongside the SLA017, the SPB051 (black dial) and SPB053 (blue dial) were more accessible reinterpretations of the 62MAS. With a larger 42.5mm case and the 6R15 movement, they blended vintage aesthetics with modern proportions and functionality (200m water resistance, sapphire crystal). These models introduced the “Prospex” arrow-head handset, a slight departure from the original’s design but a nod to Seiko’s contemporary dive watch lineup.
- SPB143/145/147/149 Series (2020): The SPB143 series, launched in 2020, became a massive hit among enthusiasts. Measuring 40.5mm, these watches offered a more wearable size while retaining the 62MAS’s core design elements: the gray-green dial, trapezoidal markers, and external bezel. The SPB143 (gray dial) is the closest to the original, while variants like the SPB147 (brown dial) and SPB149 (limited edition) added modern flair. With 200m water resistance and the upgraded 6R35 movement (70-hour power reserve), these watches struck a balance between heritage and practicality.
- SJE093J1 (2023): Ultra-thin 38mm case, 6L37 movement. A tribute to Tanaka’s design purity, the dial retains the vintage aesthetic with bold luminescent markers and hands, protected by a box-shaped sapphire crystal. A screw-down crown and date display add functionality. Limited to just 1,965 units the SJE093J1 blends heritage design with modern precision.
- SPB451J1, SPB453J1, SPB455J1 (2024): The Prospex 1965 Revival Diver’s 3-Day 300m, further refines the 62MAS formula. With a 40mm case, 300m water resistance, and the 6R55 movement (72-hour power reserve), these models respond to criticisms of earlier re-issues’ water resistance ratings. The slightly shorter lugs and deeper case brushing enhances wearability, making them some of the most ergonomic 62MAS-inspired watches yet.
Each reissue underscores Seiko’s respect for the 62MAS’s DNA while at the same time catering to modern tastes and using up to date materials and production techniques.
The 62MAS’s impact extends far beyond Seiko. Its clean, legible layout inspired brands like Citizen and Orient who both make a range of modern dive watches that can trace their design elements all the way back to the 1960's legend. In addition 62MAS features like unidirectional bezels and screw-down crowns have since become dive-watch norms.
Vintage 62MAS models are benchmarks for enthusiasts, driving demand for “neo-vintage” re-editions. Even Rolex and Omega borrowed elements from its functional aesthetic, proving that simplicity and utility transcend brands
The Watch That Built a Legacy
The Seiko 62MAS is more than a dive watch—it’s a philosophy. Taro Tanaka’s design principles and Seiko’s relentless focus on functionality created a tool that outlived its era. From Antarctic ice to boutique display cases, the 62MAS remains a symbol of innovation, resilience, and timeless style.
As Seiko continues to reinterpret its icon, the 62MAS reminds us that true design greatness lies not in complexity, but in solving problems with elegance. For collectors and horologists alike, it’s a masterpiece that keeps diving deeper into history.
Picture credits:
- https://www.plus9time.com/
- https://www.waecce.com/
- https://www.seikoboutique.co.uk/