Breitling unveils the new Top Time B31
Introduction
Breitling, the Swiss watchmaking titan renowned for its aviation-inspired chronographs and rugged tool watches, has just dropped a horological bombshell that it hopes will redefine its legacy: the Breitling Top Time B31. Launched in March 2025, this isn’t just another addition to the brand’s storied catalog—it’s a bold statement of intent, powered by Breitling’s first-ever in-house three-hand movement, the Caliber B31.
With a sleek design that nods to its vintage roots and a modern twist that screams sophistication, the Top Time B31 is poised to capture the hearts of watch enthusiasts and casual wearers alike. Let’s dive into the details of this exciting release, explore its place in Breitling’s evolving lineup, and consider what makes it a standout in today’s competitive luxury watch market.
A Design That Bridges Past and Present
The Top Time collection has always been about youthful energy and unconventional style, tracing its origins back to the 1960s when it was marketed to “young, active professionals” with a taste for bold chronographs. The model became hugely popular when it was worn by James Bond, played by Sean Connery, in the movie Thunderball in 1965. The world’s most famous secret agent was given a Top Time specially customized for his mission by Q – it even featured an integrated Geiger counter.
The new Top Time B31 stays true to that DNA but flips the script by ditching the chronograph complication for a simpler, more elegant three-hand configuration.
Visually, the Top Time B31 borrows cues from its chronograph siblings, like the baton hands and indices, but reimagines them in a cleaner, more refined layout. The dial comes in three striking colorways—black, blue, and green—each accented with a subtle yet sporty minute track and a cyclops-magnified date window at 3 o’clock. That cyclops lens might raise eyebrows among purists (it’s a nod to Rolex’s Datejust, after all), but it adds a practical touch of legibility that’s hard to argue with.
One constant across the new model range is the eye-catching orange second hand. This adds to the sense of fun you get from this watch and looks great.
The Top Time's compact 38mm stainless steel case, is a size that feels both timeless and contemporary—perfect for a wide range of wrists, from the slender to the sturdy. The case itself is vintage-inspired, with soft curves and a polished finish. The choice not to include crown guards is, I feel, the correct one.
The optional “Professional” bracelet—Breitling’s answer to Rolex’s Oyster—features slashed center links for a sporty yet polished look. For those who prefer a more motorsport-inspired look, a perforated leather rally strap, complete with Breitling's distinctive yellow inner, is also on offer .
The Top Time has a push-pull crown and is water-resistant to 100 meters. It’s no dive watch, but it’s more than capable of handling everyday adventures. In short, the Top Time B31 blends the retro cool of the ‘60s with a modern sensibility that feels fresh and forward-thinking.
Where It Fits in Breitling’s Catalog
Breitling’s current lineup is a masterclass in categorization, divided into three core pillars: air (Navitimer, Aviator), land (Chronomat, Top Time), and sea (Superocean). The Top Time B31 slots neatly into the “land” category, a collection historically tied to motorsports and rugged elegance. Unlike the Navitimer’s busy pilot dials or the Superocean’s dive-ready robustness, the Top Time has always been about style with a purpose—a versatile companion for the road rather than the cockpit or the deep.
Within this context, the Top Time B31 feels like a natural evolution. While its chronograph forebears—like the Top Time B01 Deus and Triumph collaborations—catered to enthusiasts of vintage motorcycles and high-octane thrills, the B31 shifts gears toward a broader audience. It’s less about timing lap speeds and more about timeless wearability, making it a contender for daily wear alongside dressier options like the Premier collection. Yet, it somehow manages to retain that motorsport edge, a nod to its heritage.
Breitling’s Journey: The Last Few Decades
To fully appreciate the Top Time B31, it’s worth rewinding the clock on Breitling’s history, especially the last 20 to 30 years—a period of resilience, reinvention, and bold innovation. Founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling, the brand built its reputation on precision chronographs for aviators, a legacy cemented by icons like the Navitimer (1952) and the Chronomat (1941). But by the late 1970s, the quartz crisis had brought Breitling to its knees, forcing the family-owned company to sell.
Enter Ernest Schneider, a pilot and watchmaker who acquired Breitling in 1979. Under his stewardship, the brand embraced quartz technology with models like the Aerospace and Emergency, while also reviving mechanical chronographs like the Chronomat in 1984. The 1990s and early 2000s saw Breitling lean into its macho, aviation-centric image—think oversized cases and John Travolta ads. It was a successful formula, but by the mid-2010s, the brand was struggling to adapt to shifting tastes, with inventory dumping eroding its perceived value.
Georges Kern’s arrival in 2017 marked a turning point. He trimmed the fat from Breitling’s sprawling catalog, refreshed its boutiques, and brought in high-profile ambassadors like Brad Pitt and Kelly Slater. More importantly, he doubled down on in-house movements, a journey that began in 2009 with the B01 chronograph caliber. The Top Time B31’s Caliber B31 is the latest chapter in this story—a testament to Breitling’s commitment to engineering its own future while honoring its past.
The Caliber B31: A Game-Changing Movement
At the heart of the Top Time B31 is the Caliber B31, Breitling’s first in-house three-hand automatic movement. This isn’t a modified Tudor caliber (like the B20 in the Superocean Heritage) or a chronograph (like the B01)—it’s a clean-sheet design developed over four years and assembled partly at Breitling’s facilities and partly at Sellita’s high-end AMT division. COSC-certified for accuracy (-4/+6 seconds per day), it boasts a robust 78-hour power reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback adorned with perlage and Geneva stripes.
For Breitling, this is a milestone. While the brand has relied on ETA and Sellita movements for its three-hand watches in the past, the Caliber B31 signals a shift toward greater independence and prestige. It’s not just about keeping time—it’s about proving Breitling can compete with the likes of Rolex and Omega in the manufacture movement game. The movement’s durability is impressive too, having undergone testing equivalent to 16 years of use, including 60,000 shocks at 500G and over 100,000 crown winds. This is a caliber built to last.
Specifications
Movement
Caliber: Breitling B31 (Manufacture)
Movement: Self-winding mechanical - COSC-certified
Power Reserve: Approx. 78 hrs
Vibration: 28,800 v.p.h
Calendar: Dial aperture at 3 o'clock
Case
Material: Stainless steel
Caseback: Screwed in (sapphire crystal)
Water Resistance: 10 bars
Bezel: Fixed
Crown: Non screw-locked, two gaskets
Crystal: Cambered sapphire, glare-proof both sides - cyclops magnifier
Dimensions
Product Weight: With strap - 66g | With bracelet - 124g
Watch Head Weight: 54g
Diameter: 38mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Price
On the stainless steel bracelet: £4,850 ($6,265)
On the calf leather strap: £4,550 ($5,880)
Competition
At this price, the Top Time B31 is a compelling value proposition. Compare it to the Rolex Datejust 36 (smooth domed bezel, Oyster bracelet), which retails for $7,550, and you’re getting a similar everyday elegance with an in-house movement for nearly $2,000 less.
Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra 38mm, another competitor, starts around $6,000 with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber—comparable in quality but with a different aesthetic vibe (more nautical than motorsport).
Closer to home, The Tudor Black Bay 36, also with an in-house caliber, comes in at $4,050, but lacks the Top Time’s bold design and brand cachet.
All in all the Top Time B31’s looks and and sporty flair give it an edge in the “unique yet wearable” category, while its pricing undercuts many peers without sacrificing quality. It’s a sweet spot for those who want luxury without breaking the bank.
What Makes It Stand Out?
The Top Time B31 stands out for three reasons: its movement, its design, and its versatility. The Caliber B31 is a flex of Breitling’s technical prowess, bringing in-house innovation to a segment previously dominated by sourced movements. The design—retro yet modern, sporty yet refined—offers something distinct in a sea of pilot and dive watches. And its 38mm size and everyday-friendly specs make it a go-to for any occasion, from the boardroom to the racetrack.
Add in Austin Butler as the face of the campaign (a Hollywood heartthrob with Elvis cred), and Breitling’s marketing savvy shines through. This isn’t just a watch—it’s a lifestyle statement, one that says you value heritage, innovation, and a touch of rebellion.
Final Thoughts
The Breitling Top Time B31 is more than a new release; it’s a milestone in the brand’s 140-year history. It builds on the Top Time’s legacy of cool, pushes Breitling’s in-house ambitions forward, and delivers a watch that’s as practical as it is eye-catching. Whether you’re a die-hard Breitling fan or a newcomer to the brand, this is a timepiece that demands attention—and is competitively priced to move.
In a market crowded with heavy hitters, the Top Time B31 carves its own lane, proving that Breitling’s best days are still ahead. If you're in the market for a fun, versatile watch that has heritage and is good value, then the Breitling Top Time B31 might just be the one for you.
Image credit: Breitling